Me in the FT. (Really). Big Move for Rayner. A Hit in London Bridge & A Miss in the City. Critics & More.

Giles turns yellow. Graces watches Tik Tok. Nunn goes to the market. Ellis heads to the Himalayas.

Nov 25, 2024

I had a piece in the FT Weekend Magazine, a lighthearted exploration of the prospects of securing a good table at a top London restaurant while dining as an American. The idea came up in my conversation with FT Food & Drink Editor Harriet Fitch Little, and she suggested I write it. This is the first time something of mine has appeared in a publication of anything like the FT’s stature, and I’m very grateful to Harriet for offering me the chance.

You’ll understand, I hope, that I’m unusually pleased with myself. I would be grateful for your cutting criticisms and unbridled ridicule to return me to earth. Alternatively, I’d appreciate it if you could share your most bizarre and / or amusing bad-table experience.

Food & Wine Dream Team at the FT

Speaking of the FT, they announced on Thursday that Jay Rayner was joining as their new restaurant critic after 25 years at the Observer. Equally significant, they have brought in Marina O’Loughlin to cover the global restaurant scene. After 12 years reviewing restaurants, the excellent Tim Hayward is going to focus on other food related topics. Wine-legend Jancis Robinson remains in her role.

In the narrow field of food and drink media, this is an earthquake. Rayner’s departure is a huge blow to potential buyers of the Observer, as he is certainly their highest profile writer and most consistent traffic generator.

For the FT, Rayner and O’Loughlin are two of the top food writers in the UK. To have them plus Hayward plus Jancis is just an extraordinary commitment to all things eating and drinking. It’s an absolute All Star team.

End of the Line for Leroy

This wonderful little restaurant and wine bar in Shoreditch holds special status for me: It was the first place I reviewed for Professional Lunch. It was also the venue for our very first Conversation Over Lunch. Sadly, last week the owners announced its closure. I’ll miss it.

Decoding Masterchef

If you’re into food, Masterchef: The Professionals is one of the best things on television. But the BBC being the BBC, with its reluctance to suggest endorsement, the producers never actually mention where the contestants work. Happily, The Caterer has a full list of all of the chefs and their current professional roles. Other restaurant selections are available.

Elite Restaurants Deal with Rude Customers

Eater has a superb story about how Alinea, a top American restaurant with three Michelin stars, deals with customer rudeness. In one example, the restaurant identified a disruptive group making racist comments and ruining others’ experiences, so the kitchen accelerated the tasting menu service to reduce that group’s time at table and then drew them away for a lengthy kitchen tour. An unnamed manager said, “‘Their coats and belongings were waiting for them at the end,’ he said professionally and with respect, as befitting the overall service experience at a world-class restaurant. ‘Along with the door.’”

Ever seen anything like this? Had to deal with some cringy, or worse, at the next table?

Hits & Misses

Mini-reviews of places that were either (a) good, but not quite good enough to do a full review and add to the Guide, (b) had a flaw or two, or (c) that I revisited following a prior review.

Hit: Labombe

I have mentioned once or twice that I love Trivet. But on Monday evenings, the two Michelin star spot near London Bridge undergoes a singular metamorphosis — really, they just put up a chalk board — and transforms into Labombe. Isa and Sophia and the team of sommeliers choose a bunch of interesting wines to serve by the glass. Jonny and Lukas and the kitchen brigade turn out bar-friendly nibbles.

There is wonderful charcuterie and a delicious selection of cheese.

And then there are the best two things on bread. First is the tongue bun. Beef tongue, perfectly cooked and served like tissue-thin salt beef in decadent brioche. There are pickles and sauce, and it’s just, wow.

Alternatively, the Lobster Roll. A couple of whole claws in between brioche with corn relish and more amazing sauce. Honestly. What could be better? Pair with a big red wine — the brioche is well buttered — and it’s the perfect bar food.

Both served with the best chips anyone is making anywhere and a side of homemade onion ketchup.

Genuinely, these are some of the best things I’ve eaten in the perfect spot to chat with a friend or colleague.

Miss: Sandwich Sandwich

If La Bombe offers the best things on bread, Sandwich Sandwich may offer some of the worst.

Given my anti-Pret screed a few months ago, and the popularity of my review of a few unique sandwich spots, I’ve been eager to find new, similarly interesting places. Last week’s visit to Kleinsky’s was a success.

My visit to Sandwich Sandwich in the City was not.

It’s Instagram famous. I get it. And the sandwich makers behind the counter are lovely.

But the sandwich was, well, awful.

I had the Italian Chicken. It was far too spicy. The chicken could have been anything. The flavours didn’t remotely go together. The good flavours — like the mix of salami and ham — were overwhelmed. There’s way too much sauce. And it’s too messy. You’re bound to get something on your shirt, so you can regret your lunch for the rest of the day.

Bottom line: It’s for Instagram, not for eating.

My Sandwich Sandwich sandwich. Too much, and to no useful effect.

Critics Wrap-Up

✍🏻 indicates a review that you should read for the writing.
🍽️ indicates a place that sounds excellent and is probably worth a try.

There's another round of commentary on Yellow Bittern this week. My thoughts here from last week.)
- Giles Coren (Times) is up first. “For the record, I thoroughly approve of the Yellow Bittern.”
- Andy Lynes
  (Smashed) offers a welcome fresh perspective. “What has irked journalists far more is that commie bastard or not, Corcoran is a restaurateur that would like to make a decent profit from his business.”
✍🏻 Jonathan Nunn (Vittles) has my favourite review of the week: He features Cantonese institution Reindeer Café, which is inside an Asian supermarket in Brent Cross West, and explores changes to the neighbourhood thanks to fast-growth as the result of a new train station.
William Sitwell (Telegraph) heads to Home Kitchen in Primrose Hill, which recruits staff from the homeless community. He declares it “sweet, sensible and conformist with buckets of warm conviviality.”
✍🏻 Grace Dent (Guardian) heads to Soho to try Tik Tok sensation Noodle Inn, which “is utterly delicious, yes, but there are equally wonderful noodles available just streets away, where you can book a table, linger and order as much as you desire.”
Charlotte Ivers (Sunday Times) has a mixed experience at Clare, the new Israeli / Mediterranean place in Mayfair. “We had several waiters buzzing around who seemed to have been told to provide a level of attentiveness loveable only to Americans.”
David Ellis (Standard) checks out Vatavaran, a new “Himalayan” place in Knightsbridge. He is “convinced there’s a better restaurant here than the one I experienced.”
Andy Hayler (independent critic) reviews the Hounslow outlet of Crispy Dosa. “I enjoyed [it], with its bright and breezy, relaxed feel and its genuinely excellent dosas.”
Catherine Hanly (Hot Dinners) visits The Georgian in Harrods following a total refurb. “If you're after a place where the chandelier to guest ratio is off the charts … then this is the place for you.”
“Christina” (LOTI) tries Wildflowers in Pimlico. “The food is uncomplicated but beautiful, the ingredients are few but well chosen, the dishes are light but hearty, and it all just feels incredibly chic.”
- She also reviewed Anglo Thai, which has settled into a permanent home in Marylebone after years as a pop-up, and declares that there is “nothing quite like" it.
Gavin Hanly (Hot Dinners) also does Thai, visiting Long Chim in Mayfair. “It's not going to reinvent Thai cuisine, just deliver a very good meal out.”
✍🏻 Tim Hayward (FT) is head over heels for Juliet in Stroud in the West Country.
- So is Sam Wilson (
  Bald Flavours
  ).
Marina O’Loughlin (independent critic) raves about Briar in Somerset. Jay Rayner (Observer) gushes about the “professionalism” of The Martlet in Rochdale. Tom Parker Bowles was away.

Thanks so much for reading Professional Lunch this week. I’d love to hear your reactions to any of the items above or your favourite place for a good lunch. Please drop a comment. And please do subscribe if you haven’t already.