Fleeting Return for Eater London, A Hit & Miss in Soho plus the Critics
Charlotte hurls superlatives at Ibai. Jimi tries Cambodian. Sitwell is disappointed at The Park. Marina considers airplane food.
Critics Wrap-Up
✍🏻 indicates a review that you should read for the writing.
🍽️ indicates a place that sounds excellent and is probably worth a try.
Jimi Famurewa (Standard) tries Mamapen, A Cambodian pop-up in Soho. “Mamapen bends a rowdy, low-brow environment to the will of its specific cultural mission. It uses colour, play and inventiveness to make its mark.”
Andy Hayler (independent critic) reviews The Hound pub in Chiswick. “The Hound offers an attractive premises with an accessible menu, nice staff and a well put together wine list. I just wish that the food was a little better.”
William Sitwell (Telegraph) visits The Park, which I reviewed a few weeks ago. “A tighter, better executed menu and The Park would be a restaurant as great as its name evokes.”
Tanya Gold (Spectator) reviews Café Lapérouse at the Old War Office. “I wouldn’t call Café Lapérouse a good restaurant – not quite – but it is a fascinating one, and that must do for now.”
Tim Hayward (FT) was in Paris. Grace Dent (Guardian) was in Leeds.