30 Years of St. John, Brief Return of Eater London plus Critics
Charlotte loves Ibai, Grace gets into Cornus, Jimi loves Miga, and Tim loves Lita
Well, last week’s update was a bit of a disaster. On behalf of Substack, I apologise that you got an early draft instead of the very finished version that I scheduled for sending. To make up for that mess, I’m including some critics’ reviews that should have appeared here last week. Sorry again.
You may have also noticed that today isn’t Monday. As promised, I wanted to try a different day for the update this week. Let me know if you care.
I’m writing this from Pembrokeshire in Wales, where it is currently a perfect Welsh summer day: Gales force winds and steady rain. But wine is available, so I am happy.
St Johns: 30 Years of Changing London
The inestimable St Johns restaurant, the creature of Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, has a major milestone coming up. 30 years is forever in the world of restaurants. And, after 30 years, it’s easy to forget how much they changed London’s dining scene for the better. They taught us to love offal, stuff on toast, and under-appreciated wine. Without St Johns, we wouldn’t have Camille, Mountain, or so many of our other favourites.
When Tony Bourdain first burst onto the scene, he did an episode of Cook’s Tour in London, and most of the story was about St. John. Bourdain’s respect and reverence for Henderson shines through. It’s short — 20 minutes on YouTube. Go and watch.
The Guardian has the first of what I hope will many reflections on St. John. Check that out, too. Or, just stop what you’re doing and head to the restaurant. You’ll never, ever regret it.
Eater Refreshes Essential Restaurants List
For many years, Eater London was my go-to source for foodie news and recommendations. They have something for everyone in every corner of London. Sadly, Eater London folded a couple of years ago, but the global parent site carries on. Last week, founding editor of Eater London Adam Coughlan returned with a new edition of its 38 Essentials list. It’s a great list — a good balance of new-ish places, old standbys, and places that I probably would have overlooked.
Critic Wrap-Up
✍🏻 indicates a review that you should read for the writing.
🍽️ indicates a place that sounds excellent and is probably worth a try.
✍🏻 🍽️ Last week, Charlotte Ivers (Sunday Times) visited Ibai, the increasingly buzzy Basque steak place in Farringdon, and has a “life-changing” experience.
Grace Dent (Guardian) tries Cornus in Belgravia. “This is not a raucous place to dance on tables or to look for all-day brunch, or indeed to leave stuffed to the gills. It’s a modern, yet defiantly old-school restaurant where you can speak, be heard and be well looked after.”
Catherine Hanly (Hot Dinners) also tried Cornus. Although very expensive, it’s “a lovely new addition to the London restaurant scene.”
Jimi Famurewa (Standard) visits Miga, the Korean spot in Hackney. “The team at Miga have pooled generational resources to give their father’s remarkable, soulful cooking the platform it deserves. They are making their own history.”
✍🏻 Tim Hayward (FT) went to Lita in Marylebone. “I loved the food, the service was impeccable and the prices are no more shocking than we’re going to have to get used to. What I’m less comfortable with is eating in a restaurant designed for people better than me.”
Giles Coren (Times) hits Kioku by Endo, the new high-end Japanese in Raffles Hotel. “Endo is a genius, no question. But this is not the sort of place that does it for me. I just don’t warm to the ghoulish transience of a megahotel and the tax exile citizens of nowhere such a place attracts.”
Tom Parker Bowles (Mail on Sunday) visits Wild in Westbourne Grove. “It’s hot, damned hot, and Wild, a newish place on Westbourne Grove, looks cool.”
✍🏻 Edible Reading reviews Planque in Haggerston. “I enjoyed some of what I ate, very much, but I couldn’t help feeling, at multiple times during my meal, where’s the rest? And that reinforced in my mind the vague presentiment that Planque was a restaurant to see and be seen in, more than it was a place in which to drink and be fed.”
Jay Rayner (Observer) was in Salford. William Sitwell (Telegraph) was in Warwickshire. Charlotte Ivers (Sunday Times) was in Manchester this week.
✍🏻 Marina O’Loughlin continues her summer FT residency with pieces on Plane Food and Room Service. They are both superb.
Thanks for reading. Sorry again about the foul-up last week. But hopefully back to normal this week. And lots to come next week. Please do subscribe if you haven’t already.