Weekly Review: Brigadiers
Mess vibe delivers real camaraderie backed by great food and outstanding drinks.
As an American who has never served in uniform, I haven’t had the pleasure of dining in a British Army (or Royal Navy) officer’s mess. Let alone the Indian army’s own unique interpretation of the mess traditions, some of which they adopted from the British.
But I can imagine the appeal of an atmosphere of hospitality intended to build camaraderie over food and drink.
You might suggest that the mess experience is the ultimate professional lunch (or dinner).
Brigadiers says that they are “inspired by the mess bars of India, where military regiments go to eat, drink, and socialise.”
In that mission, they deliver splendidly.
Table are close together. There’s a low ceiling. The dining room is all red leather and polished wood. There’s a wonderful bar where cricket runs 24/7/365. The buzz is immense and grows through the lunch hour. The food is for sharing. And there are experiences that naturally spur conversation — not just at tables, but across them. By the end of a good lunch, you will know your neighbours. And if the lunch is sufficiently indulgent, you might be willing to go into battle beside them.
But none of that would matter if the food failed to deliver.
Happily, that’s not a problem. Because the food does deliver, at an exceedingly high calibre.
We started with Goat Belly Vindaloo Samosas. These were perfectly crispy, and so well cooked that they passed the knife test — when I cut one with my table knife, it sliced into two perfect pieces, rather than disintegrating. The goat was rich and deep, stewed for hours in a sauce that delivered whopping kick.
A gorgeous 16 year-old Trimbach Riesling from Alsace helped put the flames out, and at a reasonable 3:1 mark-up vs. the high street.
Our next starter was Hyderabadi Jheenga Poori. Prawns in a spicy curry, with small flatbreads. We were encouraged to slice open the flatbreads and fill them with the curry. It was a delightful, interactive treat. And the prawns were sweet and delicious against the curry.
But the final starter was the best: Described as “Prawn, Softshell Crab & Squid Telicherry Fry, with Tomato Pachadi.” The highlight was the soft shells. Everything was battered and fried, then served in a heap that screamed, “dig in.”
At this point, we probably could have stopped. But we took courage and pushed ahead, deciding to share the Mixed Grill platter. The menu advertised, “Guinea Fowl Reshmi Kebabs, Methi Chicken Chops, Double Tandoori Lamb Chops, Tandoori Masala Jheenga.” It would have been enough for a whole mess. But my guest and I made our best efforts. My favourite was the lamb, tender and amazingly delicious from the tandoori. Indian breads and rice plus more of that Riesling made the whole thing a proper feast.
Brigadiers is located in the Bloomberg complex, near Canon Street station. It’s a short walk from anywhere in the City, or just across London Bridge or Southwark Bridge from Bankside and Borough. It is absolutely a top choice for a lunch full of fun and laughter.
The outstanding bar and outdoor space are both ideal for an evening out after work, and the private rooms would be superb for a convivial team-building dinner.
That said, the mess bar vibe can feel a bit private members’ (men’s) club at times. Watch out that your guests will be comfortable in that sort of environment. Inclusivity at lunch is essential. And be ready for spice. If you’re the sort of person who finds a Korma too much, Brigadiers may not be the place for you.
With those caveats dutifully noted, I’m very happy to recommend Brigadiers. Built for City lunches and evenings out, it delivers. Charge there as soon as you can.
Quick hit: An atmosphere perfect for building camaraderie over food and drink. Charge there immediately.
Details: Booking advised. City. £££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram and from Michelin.
Find it on Google Maps. 1-5 Bloomberg Arcade, EC4N 8AR.
Thanks for reading this week’s review. What’s your favourite spot for a lunch where fun is on the menu? Tell me in the Comments. And please subscribe if you haven’t already.