Weekly Review: Oudh 1722

Chef Aktar Islam introduces London to Awadhi cuisine from Nawabi courts of Lucknow.

Chef Aktar Islam has a pretty impressive track record. The Birmingham native launched Opheem in 2016 and soon scored the UK’s first Michelin star for an Indian restaurant beyond London. In 2024, the restaurant secured a second star and is one of only four Indian restaurants in the world with that status. He regularly features on Channel 4 and the BBC, including successful appearances on the Great British Menu.

Now, for the first time, he has opened a restaurant in London.

Oudh 1722 in Union Street, Borough.

I am trying desperately to avoid trotting out a raft of clichés at this point, and I have no idea what motivating factors might be behind his decision to come to London. But I do recall what Chef Thomas Keller — already America’s best chef, secure behind the stoves at the French Laundry in Napa, California — said when he was opening Per Se in New York. “If you haven’t succeeded in New York, you haven’t made it.” I wonder if there is similar thinking at play here.

London is one of the world’s best and most competitive food cities. So I instinctively admire any chef who is willing to brave that environment to compete in the capital, especially in the current economic climate.

And I’m happy to report that Oudh 1722 stacks up very well, indeed.

The focus is on Awadhi cuisine, developed in the Nawabi courts of Lucknow in the 18th and 19th centuries. There are strong influences from the courts’ Shia traditions as well as Persia and the Mughal empire. The courts were famous for their hospitality and cultural sophistication, and Oudh 1722 delivers on that heritage, as well.

Shorba, a delicious, welcoming broth.

The meal opens with shorba, a broth traditionally offered to welcome guests. Ours included lamb, peas, and fresh asparagus. It was a fantastic, spicy beginning.

The next round started with gol guppas, delicate pastry cups made from unleavened wheat dough that are lightly fried, then filled with tiny mung bean sprouts, microscopic bits of potato, and a jaljeera broth made from an exotic spice mix. Eat in one bite and quickly, lest you wind up wearing it.

Legendary Gilawat at Oudh 1722 in Borough.

Gilawat followed. These were described both in the restaurant and by Gemini AI as “legendary, ultra-soft, melt-in-the-mouth kebabs.” And I am happy to confirm their legendary status. Across the whole range of dishes that we tried, these were my favourite. The lamb version was bursting with meaty flavour, balanced with a selection of spices. The mushroom variety was a delightful umami bomb. Spread the filling on the accompanying flat bread — which would surely please Lucknow’s princely classes — and eat with delight. An accompanying dish of dahi paneer featured the most flavourful of that delicious cheese that I have ever enjoyed.

After a short breather, mains began to arrive.

Fish curry at Oudh 1722.

Gulnaar, described as the Awadhi take on butter chicken, featured juicy thigh and breast meat dressed with a wonderfully creamy, cooling sauce. It sat brilliantly next to machhli qaliya, a fiery, perfectly cooked fish curry. Mutanjan dum biryani with oxtail included strong Persian influences in a dish originally created for royals. The oxtail melted from the bone, and as we dug into the heap of lovely rice, we relished more meaty discoveries.

Given the singularly positive experiences so far, we decided to try both of the desserts. Ras malai was the only miss of the meal. It’s a dough made from curdled milk, and none of us could quite get excited about the texture or the subtle flavours. Gulab jamum, on the other hand, was fabulous. Sponge flavoured with orange juice, orange peel, and Chantilly cream, it was a final highlight on a great experience.

All of this was the work of Head Chef George Cooke and his team. Cooke has done stints at Brat and Noble Rot, among others, and it seems that Chef Aktar has found a solid partner to execute his vision for Awadhi cuisine in London while he splits time between Oudh 1722 and Opheem.

Beyond the cooking, the space is gorgeous. Chef Aktar and his team have converted the stretch of three Georgian townhouses which formerly housed Lupins into a sleek, stylish yet comfortable restaurant with an open kitchen that’s a pleasure to observe from your table.

Oudh 1722 stacks up well compared to other high-end Indian places in London. Our visit came on their fifth night of service, so it’s too early to tell whether they have ambitions for Michelin stars. But it compares favourably to places like Brigadiers in terms of food and experience.

For now, Oudh 1722 has established itself as a great place for a pleasant professional lunch or dinner, perfect for a group of 4 or 5 people. It’s a 5 minute walk from my office, so I look forward to returning soon, and often, for years to come.

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Quick hit: Delightful introduction to Awadhi from the courts of Lucknow in a sleek, stylish space.
Details: Booking essential. Borough. £££.
Visit their website. More on Instagram.
Find it on Google Maps. 66 Union St, SE1 1TD.

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