Weekly Review: Parsons
One of the most pleasant spots for lunch in London. Diverse and well-made fish options. Great cooking and an always-refreshed menu.
Quick Hit: Same owners as The 10 Cases, this one specialises in fish. Lots of lighter options. Outside space. Excellent by-the-glass selections.
Details: Booking advised. Covent Garden. £££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram and from Jay Rayner.
Find it on Google Maps. 39 Endell Street, WC2H 9BA.
Parsons was a big reason that I originally wrote my Quick Reference for Business Eating and Drinking in London a few months ago. It was the first thing I added to the list, along with its sister spot across the street, The 10 Cases.
Parsons describes itself as an “unassuming little fish restaurant tucked away in Covent Garden. We offer a wide range of seafood, freshly landed fish, as well as more classic fish dishes inspired from the British Isles and beyond.”
Uh huh.
That’s true, in a literal sense, but for me, it’s much more than that.
Let’s start with the team. There are few places in London that I feel more welcome or have more laughs with the staff than I do in Parsons. Everyone is absurdly nice. Maybe it’s the vibe of the place — something like a local fishmonger with tables and chairs. Or the big tub of wine in the middle. Or that they hang your coat above the door using a hook on a long pole.
But if you arrive in foul mood (or a fowl one), they’ll sort you out sharpish with a laugh, a nibble, and very good glass of wine.
It’s also the perfect place for a quiet chat. If you book at 1245p — just ahead of the 1p rush — you can usually snag the two-top in the corner where you can see the whole restaurant and flesh out that conspiracy with your companion in whispered tones.
Then there’s the menu. It changes constantly. For a while, they had the best New England Clam Chowder this side of the Atlantic. (The chefs at The Park should go ask for their recipe.)
On my recent visit, I opened with King Prawn fritters, which seem to have been made in heaven, assuming heaven is a place like Scotland — which is perfectly sound theology in my inexpert opinion.
My main was Schnitzel — yes, the breaded and deep fried slab of meat. And yes, my lunch was a fried starter followed by a fried main. Don’t judge.
But this Schnitzel was made with Plaice caught in Lyme Bay and served with homemade tartare sauce and a fried egg on top. I’ve never had anything like it. I went full München and paired it with homemade potato salad. And I have no idea how I stayed awake through the afternoon.
The wine list is mostly whites, as you might expect, but the selection is absurdly broad and constantly evolving. There truly is something for every palate.
My friend and I laughed our way through lunch, dispensed with some serious chat, and had a ball.
Parsons is a gem. If you haven’t been, go. That’s it.
Thanks for reading. I hope you get to enjoy lunch at Parsons quite soon. If you need to convince a friend or colleague, please feel free to share this review, and subscribe to Professional Lunch if you haven’t already.