Weekly Review: Romano's
Delightful upstairs dining extends Jeremy King's stunning legacy.
Jeremy King is 70 years old. He has defined the London restaurant scene for more than a generation. First with the Ivy, then Le Caprice and The Wolseley, then the Delaunay and Brasserie Zédel.
After losing control of the company behind those iconic places, he has spent the last 3 years building a new collection of destination restaurants: First at The Arlington, in the old Le Caprice location. Then at The Park, where he put the food of New York City front and centre. And most recently, restoring and relaunching historic Simpson’s in the Strand. In between openings, he also wrote a book, reflecting on his adventures in hospitality.
It’s a stunning list of achievements in such a short time.
But even as Simpson’s starting scoring top flight reviews from all sorts of critics, there was still one more job to do: Finish and launch Romano’s. It is, according to King’s team, his “tribute to the restaurant that once shared the Strand with Simpson’s, until it was bombed in 1941. Founded by an Italian (possibly of Russian origin) known simply as ‘The Roman’, Romano’s at its peak had a distinctly bohemian air, operating almost like an unofficial private club with its own unspoken codes of belonging.”
You’ll find it upstairs at Simpson’s, across the hall from the gorgeous main bar. Romano’s recalls the artistic salons of the 19th century, a place where actors, writers, political thinkers, coffee drinkers, and chess players might gather throughout the day.
Where the Grand Divan downstairs is dark panelled and feels formal, Romano’s is done in a powder green palate and feels more approachable, in spite of its listed interior complete with faux marble columns, Wedgwood-inspired friezes, green leather upholstery, and bright mirrored detailing.
Its elevated position on the corner, facing west, overlooking the Strand and the Savoy driveway allow its big windows to collect the best of the day’s light.
The menu is approachable, too. Starters include Sotch Egg, sprouting broccoli, candy beetroot, braised celery hearts, and cold roast beef. Mains include Lincolnshire Poacher Soufflé, fillet of cod, local fish of the day, Lancashire Hot Port, Veal 7 Crayfish Marengo, and a pie of the day. On Sunday, there is Roast Rib of Devonshire Beef with all of the trimmings.
The wine list pulls off the rare trick of being both excellent and accessible. The choices are mostly French, drawn from a cross section of regions, at a range of price points, including some quite affordable options.
We went for a very pleasant 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin village wine for a reasonable 3:1 mark-up.
For my starter, I went for the restaurant’s signature dish. Listed as “Crème Pink ’Un,” on the menu, it comes from the original Romano’s, which was first put on the map in the 19th century by John Corlett of The Sporting Times (the “Pink ’Un”), who held weekly staff dinners there and helped develop the dish, named in the newspaper’s honour, a rich crayfish bisque, now made to the original recipe. It was fantastic. Rich and bright with crayfish flavours, balanced with a hit of sharpness from brandy.
My wife chose “Portland Crab and Fried Egg Crumpet,” which was likewise really tasty. Strong crab flavour with a ready made sauce from the egg yolk, and a well-made crumpet. I would happily have it for breakfast every day.
Mains were similarly yummy. One was pork & herb faggots, served with excellent mashed potatoes and “ale gravy.” My wife chose the fish of the day, which was fillet of lemon sole, served in a traditional caper and butter sauce. Traditional, yes. Well made and a pleasure to enjoy? Also, yes.
We were rushing off to the theatre, so we didn’t get the full dessert experience, but the choices looked excellent, and I’m happy to really on the Simpson’s kitchen to provide a delicious, sweet ending. There are also cheeses and Welsh rarebit if you’d like another savoury hit.
To be clear, this is not Michelin starred cooking. It’s not even remotely trying to be. But it absolutely delivers on King’s mission of creating a restaurant where people will actually want to go.
And I do want to go, and go back, again and again. Romano’s was a delight. And choosing between visiting there or the Grand Divan is going to a perennial tough call.
For me, it comes down to the vibe you want for your professional lunch or dinner. Romano’s is more accessible, brighter, and more affordable than the Grand Divan. On the other hand, the recipes, techniques, and ingredients in the Grand Divan are more elaborate. The service is more formal. And the wine list is more extensive.
Choose accordingly.
But Romano’s is undeniably another triumph from King and his team.
Over the past three weeks, I have now experienced every aspect of the new Simpson’s. I suspect that Jeremy won’t thank me for talking in these terms, but all of the gifts that he and his team have given London, the fully formed Simpson’s might be the most important and the most long-lasting. If Romano’s is King’s last big opening, completing the restoration of Simpson’s, he will have left London a stunning legacy, sure to remain a centrepiece of the Strand for another 200 years.
Quick hit: Accessible take on British cuisine in a gorgeous, bright space.
Details: Booking essential. Covent Garden. £££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram.
Find it on Google Maps. 100 Strand, WC2R 0EZ.
Thanks for reading this week’s review. What’s your favourite traditional British dish? Tell me in the Comments. And please subscribe if you haven’t already.
Great review Marshall.
I shall have to go and try the place.
Next on my dining schedule is Brasserie Constance down by the river.
I`ll report back if it`s worth a trip.
I suspect I'll be bumping into you at Romano's. I feel more tranquil upstairs. Downstairs I feel heavy, which has it moments, but rarely for me these days.