Weekly Review: Summer House
An oasis in the Paddington restaurant dessert.
Quick hit: Fish-focused and boat-themed, but excellent quality at a decent price. The solution to all of your place-near-Paddington needs.
Details: Booking advised. Paddington / Maida Vale. ££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram. |
Find it on Google Maps. Blomfield Rd, London W9 2PA.
The full picture: Let’s just say it: The area around Paddington isn’t very nice. And finding a good place for lunch near Paddington is virtually impossible.
It’s tempting to look at Marylebone or Notting Hill, both with copious options and near enough to the station to just about work.
But if you absolutely, positively need to eat near the station, as I did a couple of weeks ago, and you want something good, you’re going to struggle. (As if to prove my point, the courageous team at Hot Dinners have taken a stab at a list of okay places in the area, but the fact that the Cheese Barge made the list should tell you a lot.)
Or you could go to Summer House.
It’s an 11 minute walk from the Elizabeth Line portion of the station to the restaurant — shorter if you come in via tube — mostly along the lovely canals and through Little Venice. You’ll walk past a plethora of mediocre pubs, chain joints, and a few contrived places along the way. But when you arrive, you’ll be happy you skipped all of that mess.
Its owners say it offers a “relaxing Hamptons beach house feel.” I wouldn’t know, as I’ve never been to the Hamptons, but it was certainly comfortable and had a fantastic lunch-by-the-sea feel, without the annoying seagulls or screaming neighbours. I concede that it does feel a little Maida Vale / nearly St. John’s Wood. I spotted an MCC tie at a nearby table. But that was more plus than minus for me, given the grotty alternative vibe nearer to the station.
The building juts into the Canal, and our table wasn’t far off water level, so you might even pretend you’re on a canal cruise, heading somewhere exotic.
The menu is fish-focused, but there are a couple of meaty and veggie options, including a tempting looking lamb option. Calamari were proudly breaded and fully fried. None of this tempura stuff here. The roast Cod was a bowlful of springtime green. Perfectly cooked and light with great veggies. Almost the ideal restaurant lunch.
The wine list was straightforward, but the quality was excellent, and mark-ups reasonable. And the desserts were delicious but not American-sized, so indulging didn’t feel too much of a trouser-stretcher.
All in all, Summerhouse was great. And it’s just right for a Professional Lunch. With a couple of courses and a glass or two of wine, it’s still possible to get out for less than the magical £50 per head.
So the next time you’re flummoxed by the “Where can I have lunch in Paddington?” question, give Summerhouse a try. It’s the perfect solution.
