Weekly Review: Sweetings
Old school and not comfortable for everyone, but still delivering excellent experiences
Quick hit: London landmark boasting classic seafood and great wine. An experience to behold.
Details: Walk-in only. City / St. Paul’s. £££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram.
Find it on Google Maps. 39 Queen Victoria St, EC4N 4SF.
Let’s start with the elephant in the room: On the one hand, Sweetings is a Victorian classic. Entering is to step back in time. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was a regular. On the other hand, its atmosphere can be uncomfortable. So as we consider Sweetings, we need to balance its many virtues with its challenges.
Sweetings was founded in 1830 in Islington. At one time, it had a several locations and was a major supplier of seafood, particularly oysters, to hotels, restaurants, and individuals. It has been in its present location for more than a century. And its location is important.
Effectively in an island where Queen Victoria Street, Canon Street, and Queen Street come together, Sweetings occupies arguably the busiest corner in the City. Moreover, it’s only 150 yards from St. Mary le Bow and Cheapside to the north, about 250 yards from the Thames to the south, and 400 yards from St. Paul’s to the west.
Most of the restaurant offers counter seating, though there is a room with a few tables and chairs. The walls are ancient wood panels, with decades of lacquer. There is a commendable selection of champagne and an excellent wine list.
Over the years, it’s been the venue for endless dealmaking and gossip-swapping. Markets have been made and broken on its stools, friendships deepened, and conflicts resolved.
But it was built at a time when all of these things were the exclusive province of men. At times, depending on the day and time, it can feel like it still is. And that can make it uncomfortable.
The gents loos are supposedly listed landmarks in an old coal scuttle under Queen Street. The ladies is accessed by an annoying route through a prep kitchen, a modern afterthought.
The food, happily, is without baggage. After all this time, Sweetings still does its seafood very well. The approach to food is like the decor: Ultra classic.
On my recent visit, I started with a crab cocktail. Oh so simple. Carefully picked, fresh, sweet crab mixed with a very little mayonnaise and served in a great wondrous lump with some well-dressed greens. No more, no less.
My main was Halibut with Mustard Sauce. Perfectly cooked, flaky fish with well-executed sauce.
Mixed berry crumble. Controversially, I chose ice cream rather than custard. But I wasn't disappointed. Admirable work.
Service was likewise classic. Slightly harried, but always helpful and later, when things had cleared out a little, glad to tell stories and share a laugh.
Last week, in considering some key principles for Professional Lunch, I suggest that in choosing a lunch spot, “real empathy with your guests is required.” And added later, “What this really means: Don’t be exclusionary. The beauty of lunch is that it’s for everyone.”
Sweetings is a deserving London icon. Its food, service, and wine are excellent. It’s a great place for lunch.
Whether it is the right place for your Professional Lunch is a matter that only you can judge. But consider carefully. Sweetings welcomes everyone, but it may not always feel that way.
I don’t normally link to other reviews from my own, but in this case, Tim Hayward’s perspective in the FT captures both Sweetings’ old school brilliance and its range of challenges.
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