Weekly Review: Wild Izakaya
New City sushi and drinking spot is perfect for a chill lunch or a big night out, and just what the City dining scene needs.
An Izakaya is, Wikipedia says, “a type of informal Japanese bar that serves alcoholic drinks and snacks. Izakaya are casual places for after-work drinking, similar to a pub, a Spanish tapas bar, or an American saloon or tavern.”
Sounds like a perfect idea for the City, which remains sadly bereft of really top-quality places to eat, let alone a first-rate place for authentic sushi and Japanese nibbles.
Open about 2 weeks, Wild Izakaya is from the team behind Pinna, Beast, the Wild Tavern in Chelsea, and Goodman, which is right across the street.
The owners converted disused office space that latterly was home to a mediocre Brown’s. The result is a gorgeous take on a buzzy, Tokyo bar. Most of the seating is at long counters, facing into the extensive open kitchen.
They have also managed to recruit the most pleasant front of house team that I have recently encountered. My waitress was engaged, funny, and a wonderfully helpful guide through the menu and the whole experience. Sommelier Frini Taifakou was an absolute delight, demonstrating hospitality at the highest level.
She has built a wine list that is one of the most interesting and diverse in the City, surpassing places like wine-focused Cabotte and sister-spot Goodman. There are dozens of sake selections from all over Japan, and an epic list of European and new world wines at reasonable prices and fair mark-ups. There is also an enviable collection of high-end stunners for bonus season. Best of all is the diversity of wines available by the glass via Coravin. Frini’s list includes 30 whites and 29 reds tapped via the clever preservation system from a reasonable priced Au Bon Climate Chardonnay at £17 to a Romaneé Conti at £416 per glass.
On my visit, I enjoyed a stunning Junmai Ginjo from Katsuyama called simply, “Ken,” which Frini described as “explosive white peach,” and was entirely correct. It was a gorgeous match with sushi. I also had a glass of La Rocca from Pieropan, truly the best Soave on the planet, and a wonderfully food-friendly choice, perfect for my rice dish.
For the food, the owners turned to Chef Satoru Hashimoto, who led at Koyn and headed various Nobu kitchens for 6 years before that. Originally from Hokkaido in northern Japan, Chef Satoru and his team deliver an authentic take on the Japanese Izakaya experience.
And that experience starts with sushi, because it must. A few pieces of nigiri to get things going. In every case, the fish was beautiful, and the rice — the sign of a true sushi artisan — was perfectly done with just the right amount of vinegar. A spicy tuna roll delivered perfect texture and a nice hint of spice, without overwhelming the tuna.
From there, it was onto skewers, and for me, it had to be Tsukune — meatballs made from chicken, served with a sauce of steamed egg. This was sensational. The meatballs had a surprising mix of flavours, and the egg provides a creamy richness.
My final round was rice. In this case, a rice bowl with garlic pepper shrimp, and it was my favourite dish of the night. The shrimp were fresh and cooked with precision, delivering a sweetness more worthy of great Canadian lobster. But backed with a strong black pepper flavour and the umami note of tiny Japanese mushrooms.
The whole experience was fantastic, and I can’t wait to return.
And for our purposes, it’s an outstanding choice for professional lunch, drinks, or dinner.
The vibe is easy-going and quite chill, so you would be just as happy enjoying a few nibbles with a colleague or having a big night out with a few bottles of sake. It’s also the perfect all-are-welcome alternative to boys-and-their-toys places like Brigadiers or Sweetings or the inevitable City steak lunch. And it’s a great place to go whether you want to go light, but still be in a desirable atmosphere, or go big, and dig in for the afternoon or evening.
And I think there’s something else: Wild Izakaya is a excellent place for the visitor to London who has had enough of their colleagues and just wants a quiet dinner with something good to eat, a couple of glasses of wine, and this week’s Economist. The counter seating is comfortable, and you’re not sitting on top of your neighbours. The excellent service makes everyone feel comfortable.
Bottom line: If you’re looking for a great place to eat in the City, Wild Izakaya is an outstanding choice. I can’t wait to get back. And I suspect it will become a real institution that will be with us for many years.
Quick hit: Super Japanese food with one of the City’s best wine lists. Perfect for a chill weeknight dinner or a long-night celebration.
Details: Booking advised. City. £££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram.
Find it on Google Maps. 33 Old Jewry, EC2V 8EY.
Thanks for reading this week’s review. What’s your favourite sushi place in London? Tell me in the Comments. And please subscribe if you haven’t already.
I’ve been to a lot of wine bars and I don’t think I’ve ever seen DRC by the glass, even with Coravin. At £400 a glass, I would still probably have to share it 😆