Weekly Review: Yoshino
An inspiring recovery from hard times restores superb Japanese to Piccadilly.
Before there was Endo or Umu or Luna or any of the other high end sushi spots in London, there was Yoshino.
It was hidden in a tiny alley in Piccadilly. It didn’t even have its own sign. Just a little neon hanger in front that said, “Sushi.”
It started trading in April 1996, and from the beginning, it had a key advantage. Its founder and owner was Katsu Yoshino, a seafood importer who supplied many of the UK’s top restaurants.
I first discovered it by accident in 2008, brought by my friend and sushi connoisseur Marcus. He said they had the best tuna in the UK, and I’m sure that was right. Weirdly, it never attracted much attention from the national critics, but ex-restaurateur Nick Lander knew a great thing when we saw it, and wrote an insightful review for the FT focusing on Lisa Maitland, Yoshino’s genius manager, who seemingly knew every customer.
My wife and I became regulars, though our visits got less frequent in the years before COVID. And one day, I noticed that Yoshino had disappeared.
Now I finally understand what happened. In the period following COVID, Yoshino’s landlord decided to redevelop the building. Most of the tenants moved out. Yoshino fought the order, eventually winding up in court. But their landlord was the Crown Estate, and resistance was futile. The restaurant finally succumbed in 2023.
Their search for a new location was complex. They wanted to stay in Piccadilly, but were effectively on the naughty list thanks to the litigation, so found it hard to secure anything.
Eventually, in 2025, after two years in the wilderness, they moved into a new space on Duke of York Street, just above St. James Square, that had been home to Italian-spot Al Duca for 25 years.
I’ve been slow to get back, but finally managed a visit last Friday night. And I now bitterly regret that it took me so long to return.
Yoshino remains superb. All of the ingredients, particularly the seafood, are wonderfully fresh. The preparations are authentic and full of flair. The sake selection is excellent. And Lisa is still there, acting as the face, voice, and conscience of the place, 30 years after its founding just up the street.
I’d had a big lunch, so I suggested Yoshino for something light. And we wound up just ordering an assortment of sushi and a bit of tempura with a glass of sake.
Lisa made it feel as well choreographed as a banquet. One dish arrived, perfectly timed, right after the next. The meal built on itself in a way that we could not have intended when we ordered, but Lisa managed everything to perfection. Everything we ate was simply delicious. And also perfect. The tempura was perfectly battered and perfectly cooked. Sushi was perfectly made. Sake was perfectly poured.
After so long searching, it’s not particularly surprising that the old Al Duca space doesn't feel quite right for an authentic sushi place. There are white table clothes, and there’s no sushi bar or way to engage with the chefs. Even when it was Al Duca, the space was always a bit spartan for me.
But I’ll give Yoshino a pass on the slightly off-kilter décor. When desperation guides decision-making, it’s impossible to reach the ideal.
I’d also suggest that it doesn’t much matter. As long as Lisa is managing Yoshino, it will be a gem in whatever form it might choose to present itself.
So we conclude with our usual exam question: Is Yoshino a good place for professional lunch? In short, yes. It’s in an ideal location. It’s dramatically less expensive than the high end sushi joints in Mayfair. I’d suggest downright affordable. Notwithstanding the oddity of the space, it is very comfortable — an easy place to sit with colleagues. And the food is outstanding.
Yoshino also strikes me as one of those slightly under-the-radar places that can impress. Another reason to consider it.
I’m delighted to see Yoshino returned to Piccadilly. At a time when restaurants are finding everything so difficult, it is inspiring to see one that has found a way through the fires of failure to recovery, and, I hope, prosperity.
It has earned a chance to succeed. And yet, I can only find one mention of its reopening. I hope others will notice and go.
Quick hit: Fantastic, authentic sushi delivered with pride and perfection.
Details: Booking advised. St. James. £££.
Visit their website. More on Instagram.
Find it on Google Maps. 4-5 Duke of York St, SW1Y 6LA.
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This sounds great and I love the spirit of just going in and accepting the space they have - they'll make it their own. Another relatively under the radar place I really like is Kikuchi on Hanway Street
Manson, were I editing the FT restaurant pages, I’d commission you without hesitation. The tone, level of observation, and practical intelligence feel entirely attuned to their readership.