Weekly Reviews: The Andrew Fairlie & The Strathearn at Gleneagles

World class, featuring the best of Scotland by land and sea. Plus a classy throw-back with great food where everyone is welcome.

After my grandfather died, we found a letter he had written to my grandmother from Naples in early 1944. “I’m so sorry,” the letter said. “I won’t be able to send the money for the mortgage this month, but it’s my month to buy the gin, and I won’t be forgiven if I don’t come through.”

Grandpa was a doctor in the 45th U.S. Army General Hospital, and while the duty was challenging, it was well behind the lines, and by all accounts, he and his compatriots had time to enjoy Naples, Capri, and a medicinal gin and tonic at cocktail hour. The instigator of the gin club was a Scottish doctor stationed nearby with whom my grandfather had become close friends.

Major R. Campbell Manson, 45th U.S. Army General Hospital in 1945.

After the war, my grandfather stayed in touch with his Scottish friend and, in the late 1950s, under the cover of a medical conference in Edinburgh, made the first of many trips to Scotland.

It was on one of these trips that his friend took him to Gleneagles.

He fell in love with it, and returned frequently to play golf and enjoy its hospitality for the rest of his life.

Along the way, he handed his passion for the place along to my dad, who passed it on to me.

From my first visit in 2002 until now, Gleneagles has gone from excellent to outstanding. Since Sharan Pasricha purchased the property from Diageo in 2015, there have been huge investments to improve every aspect of the experience, most notably the dining. And it shows.

So this week, following a recent visit, I offer two reviews from the Gleneagles selection of restaurants: The world-class Andrew Fairlie and the throw-back Strathearn, the hotel’s main dining room.

But before we get to the details, let’s deal with our foundational question: Is Gleneagles for Professional Lunch? Answer: Absolutely. Yes. There were at least two corporate meetings on the property, and if I could find budget for an amazing offsite with elite clients, a leadership team, or board of directors, Gleneagles would be at the top of my list. And there are few places in the world with a better on-property assortment of dining options.

This week, the capsule summary is at the end of each review.

Gleneagles remains one of the best destination hotels anywhere.

The Andrew Fairlie: Still Scotland’s Best

In 2006, The Andrew Fairlie was the first restaurant in Scotland to earn two stars from Michelin. And it remained the only two star spot in Scotland for 19 years until last month when The Glenturret Lalique was elevated.

That it has sustained this level of greatness for so long is even more miraculous given that Andrew passed away from cancer in 2019.

And yet.

Stephen McLaughlin, who worked with Andrew starting in 1995, has continued to steer the kitchen to greatness.

The menu prioritises Scottish ingredients. So it’s Andrew’s vision, kept current and progressive by Stephen.

Within the traditional, classic halls of the Gleneagles Hotel, the Andrew Fairlie is an art deco oasis, with fantastic colours and art, nothing like the vibe just outside its own door.

And the team is as warm and gracious as anyone can reasonably imagine. It may be two stars, but it isn’t stuffy. The service is comfortable, like you’re having dinner at a close friend’s house — except that this friend is one of the best chefs in the world and taps a cellar that could please any wine lover.

It certainly pleased us. Wanting to really dig into the list, we explored three bottles over the evening. Engaging and hilarious Head Sommelier Frenk Trouw helped us find bottles that would pair well with the progression of dishes. There was a brilliant white from Cartology in South Africa, a field blend that produced a delightfully crisp wine with high acidity perfect for food. A white Hermitage with the middle courses blew our minds, and is among the best I’ve had this year. Full bodied, with a classic, pronounced aroma dominated by Roussanne, it was a truly special wine. And finally, a 2009 Durfort-Vivens from Margaux was a stunning complement to the later courses, and a treat unto itself.

As for the food, we opened, as is now customary, with snacks. The best was a wonderfully constructed duck taco.

White asparagus with razor clams made a delightful opening to the main event. The buttermilk and dill sauce added a hit of acidity, though I’m not sure it needed the dollop of caviar. A lovely crab dish followed — claw meat used to fill a delicate pastry shell and served alongside a bisque spiced with ginger. It was an enjoyable, new experience.

Early courses at the Andrew Fairlie. The scallop was my favourite.

But the scallop was my favourite of the early courses. Barbecued at high temperature, it had a meaty texture and a smokey flavour that I loved. An accompanying “velouté” was actually a preparation of leeks and were an excellent match to the scallops.

Next were Morel mushrooms stuffed with a chicken and wild garlic mousse, then topped with a slice of salami and a piece of truffle. It was a decadent and hedonistic, a reason to be exciting about coming to dinner.

Later courses at the Andrew Fairlie. Surf and turf from lobster and a veal sweetbread stood out.

My favourite of the later courses was lobster. The main component was a take on Thermidor. Except the shells were smoked, then filled, then covered with a cheese sauce rich with an impossible amount of butter. It gave the lobster a smokey flavour that balanced the cheese and butter. As a side, a veal sweetbread. The whole thing constituting a stunning surf and turf, and a tour of Scotland by land and sea.

The final savoury was local deer, amped up with Asian spices and cooked perfectly. Desserts included rhubarb and some fantastic petit fors.

The whole experience was outstanding. From friendly service to great cooking, served in a beautiful space, it’s hard to get much better. The lack of stuffiness stands out. Proof that you can have world-class food and still have a lot of fun.

I’ve been to the Andrew Fairlie a few times over the years, and I can’t wait to return again. Its continued greatness is a wonderful testament to Andrew’s legacy and McLaughlin’s commitment.

Quick hit: World-class cuisine featuring the best of Scotland from land and sea. Unstuffy vibe and warm service make the whole experience truly special.

Details: Booking essential. Auchterarder, Scotland. ££££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram and from Michelin.
Find it on Google Maps. The Gleneagles Hotel. Auchterarder, PH3 1NF.

The Strathearn: Great Food and Classic Vibes

In 2002, on my first visit to Gleneagles, my dad suggested we toast my grandfather, who passed away in 1992, and ordered some Dom Perignon for the occasion. On subsequent visits, that became a tradition, one that I’ve tried to carry on since dad passed away a few years ago.

Start as you mean to continue at The Strathearn at Gleneagles.

But in the throw-back world of the Strathearn, a cold bottle of great champagne is the perfect beginning. A “start as you mean to continue” commitment that embraces the soul of the place.

Under the care of Executive Chef Stavros Babtsikos, who rebooted the Strathearn a few years ago, it is consistently producing at a high level, well above a typical “hotel” restaurant, and befitting the grandness of Gleneagles.

The Strathearn has always been the hotel’s main restaurant. First established in the 1920s, it now features a bright conservatory overlooking the grounds. In the summer, it’s an ideal place to enjoy the end of a long Scottish day. In the early spring, it was the perfect place for a gigantic Scottish breakfast.

The vibe is straight from the ‘20s. High, decorative ceilings. Throw-back seating. Huge windows. Escoffier would feel right at home. Except that most of the servers are young people from Scotland and Ireland, all seemingly born with a natural gift for hospitality.

Lobster, Beef Wellington, soufflé. Classic choices make a great dinner.

On the evening we visited, I went hard for the classics. My starter was lobster tail with a Thermidor sauce. Our other starter was a cheese soufflé made from gouda, enriched with bacon. Both were highlights.

My main was Beef Wellington from the trolley. Perfect and pink, it was a triumph. Dessert was carrot cake soufflé. Unconventional? Sure. Amazing? Yes. If you even remotely like carrot cake, this may be its true apogee.

Other, less cliché menu items were also available. There were two preparations of local, smoked salmon on the starter list. A lamb dish with aubergine sounds like it draws on the chef’s Greek roots.

There’s a special menu for kids, and the place was positively teaming with families on the night we visited.

Breakfast at The Strathearn. Worth the trip.

And then there’s breakfast. Good Lord, there is everything. A gigantic buffet in a former kitchen space now converted for the purpose. And the setting is unbeatable. On my first morning, with a late tee time sure to cost me lunch, I went big: Eggs, black pudding, bacon, mushrooms, salmon, and a hash brown thrown in to offend traditionalists. It was great.

These days, I think many people are reluctant to embrace big, classic hotel restaurants like The Strathearn, and maybe with good reason. Too many are no longer delivering at the level they were back in their heyday.

For The Strathearn, its heyday is now.

Quick hit: Classic cuisine at a high level with friendly Scottish service.

Details: Booking essential. Auchterarder, Scotland. £££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram.
Find it on Google Maps. The Gleneagles Hotel. Auchterarder, PH3 1NF.

Thanks for reading this week’s reviews. Back to London next week, I promise. For now, what are some of your favourite destination hotels and hotel restaurants? Let me know in the Comments. And please do subscribe if you haven’t already.