Weekly Review: AngloThai
Fresh, zingy, and different, Chef John Chantarasak plots his own appealing course.
Quick hit: Inventive, innovative Thai cuisine that delivers an accessible Michelin-calibre experience.
Details: Booking essential. Marble Arch. £££.
Restaurant website. More on Instagram and from Michelin.
Find it on Google Maps. 22-24 Seymour Pl, W1H 7NL.
I’m going to start this review with disclaimer: I’ve only been to Thailand once, I was there for less than 48 hours, and I barely left the Peninsula Hotel in Bangkok.
In my defence, it was a work trip, and I was there for an intense leadership meeting. There were protests that bordered on riots at the Palace. We were strongly discouraged from leaving the hotel grounds. And I was dispatched to Singapore unexpectedly at the conclusion of the meeting.
Thus, I did not have an authentic Thai food experience.
Luckily, to consider AngloThai, no authentic expertise is required. That’s because Chef John Chantarasak guides you through his innovative take on Thailand’s bountiful culinary traditions, informed by his French training, and a basket of fresh ingredients sourced from the UK.
Before we consider Chantarasak’s cooking, let’s address a potential elephant in the room: Is it for Professional Lunch?
After all, it has a Michelin star and is a tasting-menu only place. You might be sensibly sceptical about its suitability.
But the answer is yes. Strongly. In fact, the lunch tasting menu is one of the best bargains in London right now. You can have 5 delightful courses fore £55, or add a couple of supplemental rounds for a bit more.
The only challenge for me is AngloThai’s location, but that’s because I’m coming from Southwark, and am tied to the Jubilee Line. The walk from Bond Street is long. But if you’re coming from the City, it’s a few minutes on the Central Line, and a few steps to the restaurant.
I reckon you could do 5 courses and be back to the office in 90 minutes.
So, it’s viable for Professional Lunch. But is the food any good?
Yes. Very much so.
I’m self-aware that my recommendations for lunch run heavily towards traditional French, Italian, European, British, and steak places, often with strong wine offerings.
AngloThai is the perfect antidote.
It’s inventive and surprising. There are bursting flavours and just the right amount of spice. And it’s all intensely colourful. Strong reds, bright greens, and attractive maroons appeared across the menu.
The opened snack was a good example. A stiff hit of Thai broth made from Lemongrass warmed the palate and made sure your attention was firmly fixed on lunch. Then a Carlingford oyster was served with a fermented chilli sauce. Spicy. Yes. But not too intense to overpower the oyster and a lovely, fruity character from the chilli. There were little stuffed peppers made into tempura. Delicate but luscious.
An optional crab and caviar course (with a £35 supplement) was creamy with a background note of coconut. The accompanying ‘coconut ash cracker’ was an impressive culinary achievement. Stuffed with a creamy crab emulsion, they were a highlight. Together, course was brilliant, but if you’re eating on expenses or don’t fancy the extra expense, it’s okay to skip it.
A beef cheek served with John’s version of a Rendang sauce was another highlight, delivering another strong hit of lemongrass. An accompanying brioche was delicious and miraculously vegan.
Jerusalem artichokes with a topping of seeds and wild garlic were wonderfully rich, full of umami. They were served with a satay sauce, but because there are no peanuts grown in the UK, the sauce was made from sunflower seeds, and is entirely appropriate for anyone with a nut allergy. This was my favourite course, and stands out weeks later as I’m writing this.
A main course of pork with scallop roe was another innovative combination that really worked.
Desserts were similarly interesting. The best was a finisher that included refreshing slices of grapefruit and a dollop of coconut ice cream.
Beyond the food, the experience at AngloThai was similarly great. Desiree Chantarasak’s wine list was lots of fun, with intriguing selections well suited to John’s food. Our server was fantastic. Knowledgeable, conversational, and engaging, she made sure we understood the story behind each dish, all without sounding like she was reading brochure. The chic space has dark, textured tables and white-washed wood-panelled walls adorned with Thai pottery and painting.
All in all, AngloThai was a lovely, Michelin-calibre experience that still managed to be accessible. A tasting menu built around truly inventive cuisine. Food that’s different to what I’m used to. The whole lunch was fresh, zingy, and different.
And, as I wrote in a blurb for GQ, when you are ready to leave, you might wonder whether you’re headed back into cold, damp London or warm, damp Bangkok.
Thanks for reading this week’s review. Have you been to AngloThai? What are your other go-to Thai spots around London? Let me know in the comments.
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I loved AngloThai. We booked before they made the switch to the tasting menu and by the time we went there was no more a la carte. It was excellent, and as my office is one block away I would respectfully argue its ideal for a professional lunch!!