Weekly Review: L'Antipasto City

A wonderful oasis of chill amongst the City’s noise and intensity.

Quick hit: Uncomplicated Italian fare with a comfortable, welcoming vibe.

Details: Booking advised. City. ££.
Find it on Google Maps. 2 Botolph Alley, EC3R 8DR

If entering Sweetings, the subject of last week’s review, was like stepping into the 19th century, walking into L’Antipasto is a very 20th century experience.

The restaurant is in a tiny alley near Monument, but the building is a post-war rebuild. The kind of place that houses third-rate lawyers and investment advisors, desperate for a City address. Happily, the food is a lot better than the investment advice.

If Sweetings might be uncomfortable at times, L’Antipasto never is. It’s the perfect place to take a colleague for a quiet chat or a morale boost. It’s a restaurant in the City that doesn’t feel like a City place. You’re unlikely to see colleagues or competitors lurking at the next table.

The food is simple Italian fare. Daily specials from the chalkboard are usually the best choices. But there is lovely homemade pasta and excellent pizza on offer. The wine list is full of solid Italian choices at prices low enough to pass muster with the chintziest finance department.

Service is similarly solid. Attentive but not too much. Prompt but not pushy. Pleasant but not familiar.

On our most recent visit, I started with buffalo mozzarella and parma ham from the menu, but the better choice was the zucchini and calamari fritti from the chalkboard. Ever so lightly battered, carefully fried, and well seasoned, served with a simple aioli, they were a tasty delight. The mozzarella and ham was also very good. Both fresh and well presented.

For mains, I went for a favourite: Veal saltimbocca from the menu. It was excellent. Tender veal, well cooked with salty ham and a lovely butter sauce sharpened with lemon. Our other main was linguine campagna. “Sicilian sausage with fennel seeds, porcini, chestnut mushrooms” with tomatoes and a little cream. Fantastic. The pasta was clearly homemade, and the sauce was delicious.

For dessert, it was homemade Tiramisu, which was simply perfect. Rich and creamy, with the unusual addition of ground-up amaretti biscuits for extra sweetness and crunch. Sweet balanced well with espresso. And the whole thing made individually in a coffee mug.

L’Antipasto is not gourmet. Michelin will never visit. It’s just simple, delicious, home style Italian delights in a comfortable environment.

During our visit, we spotted a few tables of two — friends, colleagues, couples — as well as two bigger groups of 5 or 6. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves. And it’s easy to understand why.

L’Antipasto City is a wonderful oasis of chill amongst the City’s noise and intensity.

Thanks for reading this week’s review. Have you been to L’Antipasto City? Got any other traditional Italian spots you love? Let me know in the comments. And please subscribe if you haven’t already.